Day 1:

Arrival at Cluj Airport from where we will travel by minibus to Rimetea.

Today we explore the slopes of Turda Gorge, the second largest gorge of the country. The canyon, formed through the erosion of the Jurassic limestone mountain, is 2900 m long and the walls have heights reaching 300 m. The total surface of the canyon is of 324 ha, and considered to be a botanical mecca, with more than 1000 species (1/3 of the total Romanian) recorded, among them six endemics. This is one of the richest and most scenic karst landscapes in Romania. The area holds the second, but far smaller population of DCY, alongside with the rare Lesser Clouded Yellow and Eastern Pale Clouded Yellow.

A short drive takes us to the eastern foothills of the Apuseni Mts. Rimetea village with its beautiful hill called Secler Rock, is located in a very impressive sub-alpine landscape. Extremely abrupt slopes oriented towards the south have contributed to the maintenance of species which are often characteristic for the high mountains, here at an unusually low altitude.

We certainly will enjoy wonderful and rich traditional foods, in amount and variety.

Overnight Rimetea

Day 2:

A full day in the surroundings of Rimetea village, which include Coltesti’s fortress-hill and Aiud Gorge. A famous endemic of the area is the beautiful runcensis race of Black Ringlet, distinctive enough from the Balkan populations to possibly be worthy of full species status. We will dedicate time for Fenton’s Wood White, which occurs here, as do and Yellow-legged Tortoiseshell, Lesser Fiery Copper, and a large array of Fritillaries and Blues. It is an area where we got a record number 84 species in a day, so our expectations can be high. For the birders Rock Thrush, Alpine Swift, Red-rumped Swift, Crag Martin, Rock Bunting, Grey Partridge, and Scops Owl can be a delight. We will definitely see the 60 year old giant nest of Golden Eagle and with luck we might see them soaring overhead.

Overnight Rimetea

A spectacular drive to our next destination, the home of the famed Danube Clouded Yellow (DCY). Despite serious efforts and money spent in other parts of Romania, no further colonies were discovered in the last couple of years, so as far as we know, this  species now only occurs at 2-3 remote and isolated colonies. The species was quite common until the end of the 90’s, when it was followed by a spectacular decline. The species is now extinct in Slovenia and Hungary, probably also in Slovakia and Poland from where a few doubtful records exist. Transylvania may be the last stronghold for the conservation of DCY. The optimal habitat seems to be represented by vast mezophilous to mezoxerophilous meadows marked by shrubs and/or trees, reminiscent of sylvicol-steppes. The most suitable meadows are those which are moderately grazed, but still preserve an abundance of the Cytisus foodplants, in a mosaic habitat consisting of various tree and/or shrub densities alternating to more or less steep slopes of open land. We will dedicate serious time for DCY, and we also make a serious effort today to record some Transylvanian Turquoise Blues (TTB), a very distinctive form, described in 1985 as race magna. Distinctive colours and very large size (comparable to Large Blue) makes this butterfly a good candidate for species status. It lives only in this small corner of Transylvania, and flies in very low numbers. This is also the best part of Transylvania for Camberwell Beauty and Poplar Admiral, Geranium Argus and many more.

Overnight Gheorghieni

Day 7:

A backup morning for DCY and TTB in case of bad weather situation. If the previous day was successful, than we explore some small marshlands nearby. Another option can be the most monumental and very narrow gorge of the East Carpathian range, the Békás (Bicaz)-gorge, with hundred meters high walls, and  Lake Gyilkos (Lacu Rosu), an area popularly known as the “Switzerland of Transylvania”. In 1837 a small stream was closed by a landslide in this forested valley, and the basin filled with water. The lake gets its name because, according to the legend, a shepherd and all his animals were killed by the landslide. The scenery is very strange as the trunks of the dead trees still stand in the water because of the high grade of iron of the water. Above the lake is the Tunder (Fairy) Rock, which gives a gorgeous view to this enigmatic place. The famous “Edelweiss” adorn the peaks. Bicaz Gorge is also famous for one of the most desirable birds of Europe, the Wallcreeper. This territory is the land of another strange ethnicity and culture, the Chango people, who speak Hungarian, but picked up many Romanian cultural elements. They have very special traditions, dances, folk, costumes. In the area we look again for the endemic race of Titania’s Fritillary, Emperors, Camberwell Beauty, Poplar Admiral.

Overnight Gheorghieni

Day 8:

Today we drive and explore the Harghita-range, which  is a volcanic mountain range, part of the Inner Eastern Carpathians. The range is about 80 kilometers long and 20 kilometers wide, and is the “largest andesite mass” and the “largest volcanic body in the whole of Europe”. Its tallest peak is Hargita (Madarasi Hargita, 1801 metres). The landscape is so rural and commanding, that you will feel as if you have travelled 100 years back in the time! The peaks are mainly covered with beech and thin coniferous woods, giving great habitat for the stronghold of the Romanian Brown Bear population, estimated to be around 7000 in numbers. The forests having a sizeable population of Capercailie, Hazelhen, Three-toed Woodpecker and many other pine-species, like Ring Ouzel, Nutcracker, Coal Tit, Crested Tit, Crossbill, Firecrest and Goldcrest. Golden Eagles soar on the sky quite frequently. One of the target species here is Pallas’ Fritillary, which is a major rarity in Transylvania. Other roadside fritillaries are flying in large numbers, along with Scotch Argus and Arran Brown. Another great and widespread species of the area is the lovely Hungarian Glider.

Overnight Gheorghieni

Day 9:

Depart from Gheorghieni and drive to Cluj in time for evening departure flights. Depending on time available we may make a final stop or two for butterflies on the way.

Expected species (105-120):

Aglais urticae (Small Tortoiseshell)
Apatura ilia (Lesser Purple Emperor)
Apatura iris (Purple Emperor)
Aphantophus hyperanthus (Ringlet)
Araschnia levana (Map Butterfly)
Arethusana arethusa (False Grayling)
Argynnis adippe (High Brown Fritillary)
Argynnis aglaja (Dark Green Fritillary)
Argynnis niobe (Niobe Fritillary)
Argynnis paphia (Silver-washed Fritillary)
Argyronome laodice (Pallas’s Fritillary)
Aricia agestis (Brown Argus)
Aricia allous Alpine (Mountain Argus)
Aricia eumedon (Geranium Argus)
Boloria dia (Weaver’s Fritillary)
Boloria titania (Titania’s Fritillary)
Boloria euphrosyne (Pearl-bordered Fritillary)
Boloria selene (Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary)
Brenthis daphne (Marbled Fritillary)
Brenthis hecate (Twin-spot Fritillary)
Brenthis ino (Lesser Marbled Fritillary)
Brintesia circe (Great Banded Grayling)
Celastrina argiolus (Holly Blue)
Carcharodus alceae (Mallow Skipper)
Carcharodus flocciferus (Tufted Marbled Skipper)
Chazara briseis (The Hermit)
Coenonympha arcania (Pearly Heath)
Coenonympha glycerion (Chestnut Heath)
Coenonympha pamphilus (Small Heath)
Coenonympha tullia (Large Heath)
Colias alfacariensis (Berger’s Clouded Yellow)
Colias chrysotheme (Lesser Clouded Yellow)
Colias crocea (Clouded Yellow)
Colias erate (Eastern Pale Clouded Yellow)
Colias hyale (Pale Clouded Yellow)
Colias myrmidone (Danube Clouded Yellow)
Cupido minimus (Little Blue)
Cupido osiris (Osiris Blue)
Cyaniris semiargus (Mazarine Blue)
Cynthia cardui / Vanessa cardui (Painted Lady)
Erebia aethiops (Scotch Argus)
Erebia euryale (Large Ringlet)
Erebia ligea (Arran Brown)
Erebia melas (Black Ringlet)
Erynnis tages (Dingy Skipper)
Everes argiades (Short-tailed Blue)
Everes decoloratus (Eastern Short-tailed Blue)
Gonepteryx rhamni (Brimstone)
Hamearis lucina (Duke of Burgundy Fritillary)
Hesperia comma (Silver-spotted Skipper)
Hipparchia fagi (Woodland Grayling)
Hipparchia semele (Grayling)
Inachis io / Aglais io (Peacock Butterfly)
Iphiclides podalirius (Scarce Swallowtail)
Issoria lathonia (Queen of Spain Fritillary)
Lasiommata maera (Large Wall Brown)
Lasiommata megera (Wall Brown)
Leptidea morsei (Fenton’s Wood White)
Leptidea sinapis (Wood White)
Libythea celtis (Nettle-tree Butterfly)
Limenitis camilla (White Admiral)
Limenitis populi (Poplar Admiral)
Lopinga achine (Woodland Brown)
Lycaena dispar (Large Copper)
Lycaena hippothoe (Purple-edged Copper)
Lycaena phlaeas (Small Copper)
Lycaena thersamon (Lesser Fiery Copper)
Lycaena tityrus (Sooty Copper)
Lycaena virgaureae (Scarce Copper)
Maculinea/Phengaris arion (Large Blue)
Maculinea/Phengaris teleius (Scarce Large Blue)
Maculinea/Phengaris tolistus (Balkan Alcon Blue)
Maniola jurtina (Meadow Brown)
Melanargia galathea (Marbled White)
Meleageria daphnis (Meleager’s Blue)
Melitaea athalia (Heath Fritillary)
Melitaea britomartis (Assmann’s Fritillary)
Melitaea diamina (False Heath Fritillary)
Melitaea didyma (Spotted Fritillary)
Melitaea fascelis (Lesser Spotted Fritillary)
Melitaea phoebe (Knapweed Fritillary)
Minois dryas (Dryad)
Neozephyrus quercus (Purple Hairstreak)
Neptis rivularis (Hungarian Gilder)
Neptis sappho (Common Glider)
Nymphalis antiopa (Camberwell Beauty)
Nymphalis polychloros (Large Tortoiseshell)
Nymphalis xanthomelas (Yellow-legged Tortoiseshell)
Ochlodes sylvanus (Large Skipper)
Papilio machaon (European Common Swallowtail)
Pararge aegeria (Speckled Wood)
Philotes vicrama (Eastern Baton Blue)
Pieris brassicae (Large White)
Pieris bryoniae (Mountain Green-veined White)
Pieris ergane (Mountain Small White)
Pieris manni (Southern Small White)
Pieris napi (Green-veined White)
Pieris rapae (Small White)
Plebejus argus (Silver-studded Blue)
Plebejus argyrognomon (Reverdin’s Blue)
Plebejus idas (Idas Blue)
Polygonia c-album (Comma Butterfly)
Polyommatus amandus (Amanda’s Blue)
Polyommatus bellargus (Adonis Blue)
Polyommatus coridon (Chalk-hill Blue)
Polyommatus dorylas (Turquoise Blue)
Polyommatus icarus (Common Blue)
Polyommatus magnus (Transylvanian Turquoise Blue)
Polyommatus thersites (Chapman’s Blue)
Pontia edusa (Eastern Bath White)
Pyrgus alveus (Large Grizzled Skipper)
Pyrgus armoricanus (Oberthür’s Grizzled Skipper)
Pyrgus malvae (Grizzled Skipper)
Satyrium spini (Blue-spot Hairstreak)
Scolitantides orion (Chequered Blue)
Spialia orbifer (Orbed Red-underwing Skipper)
Thecla betulae Brown (Hairstreak)
Thymelicus flavus (Small Skipper)
Thymelicus lineola (Essex Skipper)
Vanessa atalanta (Red Admiral)

to follow later